The approach of Spring and exactly how this could cause wet basements.
A Guelph realtor advises: one sure sign of spring in Ontario is wet basements! Follow this advice I discovered on a recent workshop on basements for Guelph realtors.
Tip #1: basements were never supposed to have been finished liveable spaces.
Tip #2: once you finish the basement, plan for future moisture problems.
Time was basements used to be left ‘to cure’ for a year or so before finishing, so cracks resulting from shifting or other moisture difficulties could be noticeable and solved before drywall was installed. These days builders offer to finish it for you immediately.
As the snow melts you might get surface water running down the foundation walls. Add that moisture to already water-saturated ground being forced into your foundation wall by hydrostatic pressure and you have an issue. Water always follows the path of least resistance so if you happen to have any cracks, holes or shifting blocks or bricks within your foundation you might discover water, or at the very least dampness, inside your basement. Should the ground beneath the footings freezes the soil may expand and cause the foundation to heave and water always finds the best way through. Downspouts that run towards the foundation, poor grading where the soil runs down to the foundation, foundation plantings, blocked or weakened perimeter drainage systems and exterior damp-proofing which may be no longer efficient can all lead to such problems.
What difference can your foundation make?
Rubble stone foundations were common pre WW 1 and were least expensive, because stone was gathered on the cleared land. Basements with stone foundations were definitely never intended to become finished livable space. That was the place that the coal, potatoes and preserves were saved. There’s a high-risk of moisture problems with a rubble stone foundation and it’s an on-going maintenance issue.
From about 1910 to 1935 brick was frequently employed. Bricks swell after they get wet and this can aid in protecting against leakage but nevertheless expect dampness in the basement, simply because eventually bricks can also shift and crumble. Then from about 1940 to 1970 concrete blocks were frequently used for foundations particularly when owners were doing it themselves. Whenever built correctly, with rods properly inserted and blocks filled with concrete, those foundations have withstood the test of time. However, there is no way to know, once it’s built, whether or not it has these materials. Generally if the blocks are hollow, water can easily fill them and the blocks can begin shifting.
Wood foundations haven’t been standard in southern Ontario, therefore wouldn’t be a consideration for Guelph property, but are used a lot more in western Canada. Poured concrete foundations have been put into use ever since the early 1900s and are still thought to be one of the most reliable, irrespective of frequent complications with cracks. On the other hand, older concrete foundations where river rock and big lumps of gravel and stone were put to use don’t hold together as well. The concrete should be poured completely at the same time for the best adherence.
Building methods and products have improved with time. Clay weeping tiles which often moved and grew to be clogged have been succeeded by continuous plastic pipe with drainage holes along with a geo-textile sock over that filters out sand and silt. A bitumous (tar) coating had previously been painted onto the exterior foundation parging, though it would crack and wear off as time goes by. Nowadays a drainage layer of corrugated plastic sheeting is utilized to hold the soil away from foundations walls, creating an air gap between the foundation wall and the backfill dirt, which conducts water towards the weeping system. Also there is a peel and stick tar-like material that’s not usually applied during construction but utilized as a retrofit.
Solving the situation:
Managing water and moisture troubles with your basement is often a process of elimination. You start with the most self-evident culprits. Investigate surface water drainage. Are the gutters plugged with leaves and debris and overflowing when it rains? Do the downspouts extend as a minimum 10 feet from your house, or if they go into the ground can they drain in the footing drainage system? Does the paved drive or foundation planting beds pitch toward the foundation? If pavement adjoins or abuts your property wall is it adequately sealed or has the sealant broken down? Sewer connection problems, broken sump pump and window wells that push water in to the foundation are other considerations.
Sometimes it is as simple as a $5 fix to include an extension for a downspout or it might be $20,000 to dig up your whole foundation and replace the weeping tiles. You will find companies specialising in resolving basement moisture problems and some guarantee their work. The MLS listing will not be likely to tell you if you can expect to have such problems. It is another reason to have a qualified home inspector check your house before buying.
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